This week, we dive into the world of exceptional vintage watches, highlighting pieces that stand out not just for their craftsmanship but for their rarity and historical significance. From a unique Audemars Piguet to a square Patek Philippe and an unconventional Doxa, these timepieces tell stories of horological innovation and artistry.
The Audemars Piguet we’re focusing on today is a true rarity. Produced before 1951, this watch is part of a period when AP crafted each piece uniquely, with no two watches being identical. The brand’s output during this era was incredibly limited—only 307 chronographs were made before 1951, compared to Patek Philippe’s 688 perpetual calendars in the same timeframe. This particular AP features the Valjoux 13VZ movement, a hallmark of precision and finishing excellence, with Geneva stripes that rival even Philippe Dufour’s Simplicity.
Next up is the Patek Philippe ref. 1486, a square-cased watch with hooded lugs and a rose gold case. This model, produced in the mid-20th century, showcases the innovative case design by François Borgel, featuring sliding and locking strips for enhanced water resistance. With its rose gold "silvered" dial and original box and papers, this Patek is a collector’s dream. Despite its rarity, it remains relatively affordable compared to other vintage Patek models, making it a compelling choice for enthusiasts.
Daniel Roth’s perpetual calendar, introduced in 1991, was a groundbreaking achievement in watchmaking. Developed with the help of Philippe Dufour, this watch was the first to feature instantaneous calendar changes, where all indications flick into place at midnight. While this particular example lacks its box and papers, its historical significance and connection to two of the greatest watchmakers of the 20th century make it a standout piece.
Rounding out our selection is a quirky Doxa powered by a Chézard movement. This watch features a sun and moon display instead of an hour hand, with the sun indicating daytime hours and the moon taking over at night. The deadbeat seconds complication, patented by Chézard in 1952, adds a unique touch to this vintage piece. Currently up for auction on eBay, this Doxa is a charming and affordable option for collectors looking for something out of the ordinary.
From the rarity of Audemars Piguet to the innovation of Daniel Roth and the charm of Doxa, these watches represent the pinnacle of vintage horology. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or a newcomer to the world of watches, these pieces offer a glimpse into the artistry and history that make vintage timepieces so captivating.
