Ultra-thin watchmaking is a fascinating field that has garnered much interest in recent years. While high-end watch brands often focus on adding complications to their movements, ultra-thin watches prioritize miniaturization. In this article, we delve deep into the world of ultra-thin watchmaking to explore the thinnest watches in different categories.
Let's start with the world's thinnest mechanical watch. Piaget held this title for many years until 2013 when they unveiled their impressive Emperador Coussin XL 700P, which featured a 2mm thin case. However, this record was soon broken by Piaget's competitor Bulgari, with their Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, measuring just 1.70mm in thickness.
Piaget wasn't ready to give up, though. They upgraded their Altiplano Ultimate Concept watch with a tourbillon, maintaining its 2mm case thickness. Bulgari also entered the thinnest tourbillon watch competition with their Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic, measuring 3.95mm.
Bulgari continues to dominate the ultra-thin watch market with several other records. They hold the title for the thinnest non-tourbillon automatic watch (4.30mm), thinnest chronograph watch (6.90mm), thinnest tourbillon chronograph watch (7.40mm), and thinnest perpetual calendar watch (5.80mm).
The thinnest minute repeater watch ever created is the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater, with a 3.12mm movement and 6.85mm case. In the pocket watch category, the thinnest known example is the Vacheron Constantin "Knife" reference 10726, with a movement measuring only 0.94mm.
While the Swiss were initially overshadowed by Japanese watchmakers during the quartz revolution, they fought back with ultra-thin watches. The Delirium series, introduced by Ebauches SA (now ETA), included the Delirium II watch, measuring just 1.43mm, and the Delirium IV, which holds the title for the thinnest watch ever produced at only 0.98mm.